An insider's guide to little-known places to go and things to see in Dubrovnik








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The perfume lady
The perfume lady

I saw her for the first time seventeen years ago. I was walking in the Old Town with my family and we saw her behind the small table full of bottles.

It was, however, the perfume that made us go near her. She was selling essential oils home produced in Dalmatia, a tradition that goes back many centuries.

She told me, "Smell it one time and you'll feel better!", and then she put a few drops on my hand.

I can still feel the intense scent of lavander as if I were smelling it now. And the whole scene of her smiling face, the pigeons in the square and other people stopping there is still very sharp in my memory.

Seventeen years later she can still be found in the same spot in Gundulić square on summer days, her table always covered with all the perfumes of this land. She has virtually become another monument in the Old Town. Everybody in Dubrovnik knows her and many greet her when passing by.

If you ever happen to walk around Old Town and you see her there, do stop and spend a few moments at her table... :)